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Finally, a restaurant that solves that age-old dilemma: Italian or Persian? Schizophrenia aside, Zaffron manages to shine at both cuisines. Inside, a California-style decor: stucco walls, autumn colours and tile floors. Fresh from the wood oven, Iranian flatbread ($4) is sprinkled with sesame seeds; it proves the perfect medium for smoky eggplant purée ($6.95) with lashings of goat yogurt cheese and deep-fried mint. Fusilli Saraceno ($13.95) confirms Italian expertise, with a creamy tomato sauce teaming up with grilled chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, and onions red and green.

Chefs charbroil skewer upon peerless skewer of lamb, tenderloin, sirloin and saffron- and lemon-marinated chicken. Zaffron kebab ($18) is tender, juicy and smoky; each grain of accompanying basmati rice is perfectly separate, moist and steamy hot; a shake of sumac adds lovely sour notes. Finish with glass mugs of Persian tea ($2.25) and a plate of honey-heavy treats ($3.95). The wine list represents Italy well, but most (Iranian) patrons drink a milky-white yogurt soda. Takeout and delivery available.
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